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sawfish, an unsinkable, lightweight, foam kayak (23 lbs). free diy kayak plans, the hardware store boat
by：DIgao
2020-06-23
Do you really want a kayak?
Want a skill that you can taste so bad but can\'t afford to buy or think you didn\'t build one?
Then I have a few questions for you.
Can you cut the bagels with a hard crust with a knife, fold the pieces, stick the sandwich with mayonnaise, kebab meat and vegetables, cut the thin fabric with scissors, stretch the wrinkles from the sheets, and roll paint on the wall?
You can build this ship!
Unlike most vessel plans that require you to read and learn, it requires you to purchase or have a large number of tools to learn a brand new language dedicated to vessel building.
I designed the ship and wrote the article as simple as possible.
You don\'t need any shipbuilding books or any tools.
You can find everything you need to build this boat in hardware, Internet and discount stores.
When you are done, you will be a real shipbuilder and have an excellent ship to show it.
While I have built a lot of plywood kayaks, from simple free designs called rat-catching boats to tandem kayaks with quick features, called Larsboat, they all have some problems.
They are made of plywood because I am cheap and don\'t buy expensive marine plywood, so cheap plywood has to be careful otherwise it will fail in a few years.
The purpose of my design of this ship is to use as little wood as possible, and it is almost indestructible, it does not rot, and it does not sink even if you make a hole in the ship.
I specifically discuss kayaking on the FB page, such as \"kayak DIY projects and tutorials\", if _ id = 15584874949995 if _ t = feedback _ reaction _ generic, \"Look at the front of my kayak\", \"Duckworks\", \"plywood pirates\", \"skinny hull canoe and kayak sailing \", \"Kayak building\" if _ id = 15582029638156if_t = group_activity, I like to see photos of people on the water, I believe the ship can get more people into the water for less than any other plan.
In addition to how easy it is to build this ship for the first time, it is also lighter than any other type of ship.
If it\'s hard for you to put your kayak on a roof shelf, or hate to take the boat to any distance because of its weight, then Sawfish is what you want.
The weight is under 30 lbs, easy to carry at any distance, and easy to mount the roof rack.
I designed it for my parents who have all retired and found themselves unwilling or unable to deal with their current stress (sit on top)kayaks.
Despite the simple construction and low technical content, the Sawfish is not slow, I usually cruise at 4 miles per hour on GPS and can sprint to more than 5 miles per hour.
I can also stand up in Sawfish, although I would not recommend doing so unless you have a good balance and don\'t mind getting wet.
Due to unusual building materials, the price of Sawfish will not be high compared to any kayaks you can buy or build.
I have built six Sawfish so far, and my best estimate of the cost of materials is $125 to $150. One builder (
Float and Sawgundo)
He said he built two kayaks for $175.
Depending on what you can search or lie around, you may do better.
One of my most common questions about Sawfish is \"how strong/durable is it?
\"The last photo shows Sawfish holding my 180 (81kg)
Hanging between two cars.
I did this two years ago and still use Sawfish now, no problem.
I was surfing on York beach in Maine last summer.
The surf started, the wave of the waves crossed my head, and the saw fish passed without any problem.
This summer, I plan to eat Ze fish on some mild white water on the Sako river and I will let you know.
The ship was built with what I only found in Home Depot, Wal-Mart, and US port shipments, and it can all be found in the places of Lao and most likely mennard.
I don\'t know what stores you have in other countries, but if you have a hardware store nearby, most of them can be found there, although it may not be the cost I can get here. (
With the exception of the kalifoynya People\'s Republic, where there is no foam, the flame retardant added to it can lead to instant death or something like that, which is just another reason to escape the country before the big fire! )
First you need foam, I build these boats with XPS foam (
Extruded polystyrene
, Although the pearl-shaped white foam is cheaper and sometimes easier to get, it is not that strong and will soak in water.
XPS is a closed foam that does not absorb water even if cut or cut.
You can ask your store to order some 2 \"XPS for you, but most people seem to find that the store will expect you to buy the entire tray for $33 each, 24 sheets or so, you will see nearly $1,000!
This is enough for 12 Sawfish kayaks! ! ! {
Ask the full time heat preservation installer to make some people lucky and others find asking about the construction site.
It turns out that most panels are thrown because they use the corner of the paper}
What you need is :-
4x8 feet 2 \"two pieces of thick foam. (1. 21 x 2. 43 m 50. 8 mm)-
The biggest bottle of gorilla glue you can get, I found an 18 oz bottle of glue enough for a boat.
If you want to build a few ships, then buy another bottle.
I ordered the Gorilla Glue in 72 oz package (
Four bottles of 18 ounces)
They deliver free shipping from Home Depot to the nearest store or my home.
Please note that the glue will thicken and solidify in the bottle due to humidity, so don\'t buy too much, just something you can use in a few months. -
Old sheets, fabric remnants or canvas drops. (
The more synthesis in the fabric, the harder the glue is to stick to the fabric, and the harder the paint is to stick to the fiber)
Ask around the hospital, nursing home or hotel laundry and you may get some free, torn or dirty sheets.
I bought mine at a charity thrift store, looking for an apartment the size of a queen or king (
No elastic edges installed)
And it\'s thicker and less elastic.
Some people use fine linen, or even linen, just remember that the thicker and heavier it is. -
Bamboo string ,(
Sold in kitchen and food stores)-
The gallon tank of Titebond II-
1 gallon of exterior paint, check the oops paint racks in the paint department every time you visit, they may have the color you want and the price is much cheaper. -two (or three)
The gama sealed barrel cover of the Home Depot paint department is stored here in black.
I found the white one in a restaurant.
2 \"or wider plastic packaging tape.
Tape, masking tape, etc. can also workgloves-
Plastic cutting board-
One or two tubes of PLpremium building adhesive, 3x is the best and cheaper (
You can skip this and save money with Gorilla Glue)-
1 \"1/4\" plywood, cheap wooden patio sticks, etc.
You need a little more than 8 feet, though. (
Every time you visit the paint department, ask for a 5 gallon paint bucket mixer stick or two, and in a few visits you\'ll have plenty of time to make defensesdent rails)-
Nylon straps from a few feet wide of 3/4 to 1 for making handles
About 1 feet PEX plastic pipe or PVC pipe to make the handle more comfortable
4 or 5 feet of 1. 25 or 1.
5 inch PVC pipe. (
This is to make the tools to install the pole rack and build 4 Fishing Rod racks on your boat.
Even if you don\'t fish like me, they are a convenient place to install sun umbrellas or lights operated with batteries at night.
I heard that most fishing rods are suitable for one.
25 inch of the pipeline, but a few brands need 1. 5\" pipe)tools:-Safety glasses-dust mask-
Warner 250 wallpaper removal tool-
Hacksaw drywall-shureform -
Flat cutters-
Bricks, paint cans, old heavy objects, or a pile of 5-pound rocks ,(
I call them gravity fixtures)-
Paint roller handle, tray and roller-
While you can build a saw fish without this, it\'s much more difficult to make a smooth boat using only the shureform, and it takes longer. -
Fixture saw you can do all the cutting with a drywall saw, but it won\'t be so easy or fast and there won\'t be much confusion. -tape measure-
10 feet long 3/4 \"PVC pipe-
Pencil Carpenter, marker pen, ink pen-
Great measure-chalk line-
Mixing board folding good things
Plastic hanger-
Scoop ice cream spoon (
For the engraving of those inner corners, a large metal spoon can also be used)-caulking gun-scissors-razor knife -wood rasp-
1/2 shovel or drill-power drill-
You will always come across the fact that plywood has a slow 8 \'long, short boat.
To make the plywood long enough to form a quick shape, you have to attach two or three panels together.
While there are a lot of ways to do this, the best way is to call it the scarph joint, which I \"invented\" my own for making longer foam plates.
It\'s actually a \"butt\" joint, but I like to call it a \"butt\" joint ,(
The degree of bending of the butt joints is different from the rest of the plywood, so they must be placed in the middle of the boat, where the curves are minimal and the scarph joints bend like the rest of the panel, can be placed anywhere.
Since the butterfly joint can be bent the same as the rest of the panel, I call it the scarph joint)
First, punch the face to be glued using the wallpaper scoring tool, which will provide you with the best possible glue joints.
Rub the end of the punch with your hand to remove the looseness of any small piece of foam tear.
Lay as closely as possible along the connecting line the part to be connected together.
Run a piece of tape along the length of the joint and you want the tape to extend to both ends of the joint a few inches.
Now fold a part of the foam back to the top of the other part with adhesive tape as a hinge.
From the top of one panel to the bottom of the other, then apply gorilla glue in a saw pattern, which will allow the glue to enter as many areas as possible.
Fold down the top panel again.
Flip the two panels so that the adhesive tape hinge is located at the bottom of the joint.
Place the attached foam board on a flat surface and apply heavy objects along the joint to force the joint to close.
Fold the end of the tape to capture the glue coming out of the end of the joint.
Once the Gorilla Glue is cured, remove the tape and remove the sand from the beard (
Glue running out and curing from the joint)
I made a short video to help explain this step.
In the three years since I built the first saw fish, I have built a few more and are currently doing stretching work for two saw fish.
The design of the bow seems to be the hardest for many to understand, and in any case, I have to come up with a new way to make a cut pattern in series.
I ended up coming up with a better idea to make the hull and am now building a new sawfish using a new cut and build pattern.
I thought I was smart and then I got a facebook post from James Brown.
He was building a saw fish kayak and came up with the same idea of making side ribs.
Then he really came up with a better idea.
I will revise the Instructure again to reflect the idea of Jame.
I\'m going to keep the old ones for a while because there seems to be some people building saw fish right now and I don\'t want to confuse them, but if you plan to build saw fish, use this pattern, not old!
It\'s much easier.
The best part!
You can make ships of almost any shape or length with a new cutting plan!
Short and fat, long and thin, just a little imagination!
Just figure out the length and width you want, make a foam board that is big enough and wide enough to fit the whole bottom, and then copy it as I showed for Sawfish and do the side rib.
It\'s not easy.
First find a plane where you can place the two foam boards from start to finish.
If you don\'t have an area 16 feet long, cut a panel in half at 4 feet.
> Use the wallpaper piercer to prepare the foam on both sides to be glued. (
Rub the surface with your hands afterwards to get loose foam blocks)
> Lay a piece of plastic or wax paper under the seam to avoid sticking to the floor.
> Follow the steps in the butterfly scarph joint video to make a 12 feet foam panel> the end of the folding tape to prevent the glue from draining the end of the joint and applying weight along the joint.
> After the glue is cured (overnight)
Remove weight> from 12 feet (3. 6576 m)
Side of the foam panel, marking 14 inch per end (35. 56 cm)from one side.
> Snap the center line to the foam panel using chalk lines or straight edges.
Center Line Video> mark each foot using a tape measure (304. 8 mm)
Along the center line.
> Arrange the hull size from the center line.
Bow measurement and marking 1 inch (25. 4 mm)
To 6 feet on both sides of the center line (182. 88 cm)
Station Test mark 14 \"(35. 56 cm)
Measure and mark each side of 2 from the center line to the stern \"(5. 08 cm)
On each side of the center line, the bow can be either end of the center line.
> Now put your PVC pipe (batten)
And use bricks (ducks)
Arrange the pipes along the points you just marked.
Make sure you put the duck (bricks)
The same position when drawing each side, which makes the two sides have the same curve (fair)
, Stack bricks as needed to prevent them from being moved by the bending resistance of the PVC pipe.
When you track the batten on the foam, hold the pencil vertically.
Since the hull is 12 (3. 6576 m)
Feet long, PVC pipe is only 10 feet, I found it would be better to start at the stern and start at one end of the pipe at station 12, keep it at the midpoint of the 14 inch mark and then put the other end at 12 \"(30. 48 cm)
From the center line.
Trace the outside of the Batten so that the marking of the midpoint, bow or stern is on the outside of the Batten.
Do the other side of the stern and move to the bow.
Start at one end of batten on Zero Station marking 1 \"on the center line, let batten run around the midpoint mark again, and then align the other end of batten with the line you have traced.
> Measuring 18 \"using tape measure \"(45. 72 cm)
From the edge of the hull pattern, you just drew it down on the foam at the bow and stern. Mark each 3\" (7. 62 cm)
From the edge of the pattern to 18 \"(45. 72 cm).
Do so at the bow and stern.
> Now, use the wallpaper removal tool to rate the surface of each foam board, and each hole left by the spike on the tool will allow the glue to penetrate deeper into the foam.
I prefer to think of these holes as thousands of small nails that stick together.
The stripping of the fabric to modify the vessel later proved to be true.
> Use a drywall saw or a clamp saw, cut along each line, always, so you remove the smaller part first, which gives you a larger part, use your hands, knees, teeth, elbows, etc.
Don\'t cut the center line! (
If you do, stick it together with another butterfly scarf)
> Match the bottom blank with 3 \"marks at both ends of the panel.
> Trace the edge of the blank at the bottom.
> Repeat for all six ribs.
> Be careful when handling ribs, they are easy to break if you catch the ribs from one end.
When moving them, put them in the middle and they don\'t break so easily.
Pick up all six ribs.
If you are like me, some of them will be thicker and some will be narrower.
Try to divide them into three pairs.
> The thickest will be the bottom, the thinnest will be the top, and the remaining two will be the middle.
> Copy the center line end of the bottom blank to the other side of the foam.
> Capture the center line to the other side of the foam using chalk lines.
> Take the two thickest ribs and place them on the top of the bottom blank so that there is a rib on each side of the bottom blank.
> Align the tail of the bottom blank and side rib to flush.
> Use the fist number of the first finger as a measurement tool to set the overlap of the first rib at the consistent depth of the stern.
> Fix the tail of the rib in the appropriate position with bamboo ske> set the overlap of the 9 feet station side ribs to the same depth using the same fingertip.
> Fix the ribs in place at 9 feet station> repeat this operation at 9 feet station and bow.
Use the same fingertip size> to track the inner edge of the first rib to the bottom blank.
> Cut the inner tip of the first rib to match the center line.
> Using the same fingertip as the measurement, first fix the other side of the rib to the stern, then 9 feet and 3 feet stations> remove the skewers from the bow end of the first rib> align the bow end of the other rib, wire cut along the center> push the closed joint between the rib bow tips, and fix it in place.
> Save the parts you cut off and use them later.
> Cut off the skewers along the top of the first layer of ribs so they are flush with foam.
Save ends because you will use them on the next level.
Use a flush cut clamp to cut at the end of the skewer at a certain angle to form a new point on the skewer.
You should be able to reuse each skewer several times.
Ribs on the second and third floors.
> Continue to align the ends of the ribs so that they are all flush with the tail of the bottom blank.
This gives you a flat stern fitted with a rudder or motor bracket, or just gives you extra volume that allows you to camp on board, etc.
> To give extra volume to the hull at both ends, set the same overlap size at the stern with your fingertips, fix it in the proper position with skewers> now go to 6 feet station, align the outside of the rib so it can have the first layer.
> Go to the bow and set the overlap with the fingertip size again.
> Don\'t worry about how many bubbles overlap between the bottom blank and the front of the first rib, which is intentional.
> Trim the second rib on the bow so that it will be cut off even if there is a center line on the bow. (
Like you did on the first floor).
> Repeat this operation on the other side of the second layer, and repeat this operation on the third layer.
> The Hull should have further sloping steps at the bow and stern of the ship, but there is no flash in the middle.
This makes the paddle easy, but gives it extra volume at the end to help it rise in the waves and wake up.
Before you go further!
Use the tip of a pencil, pen, marker pen or drywall saw to track the inside of each rib to the layer below.
This will allow you to quickly put the glue back in what you want as it flows around.
If you build the kayak the way I show you will want a front partition to support the end of the front deck and the back partition to support the front of the back deck.
The deck gives you dry places to store things, and if the kayak is flipped, or everything is soaked with rain, spray or waves, it\'s a great way to prevent things from losing.
The partitions also make the kayak stronger and less flexible.
Some people make an open area behind the rear partition to ship oversized gear, or have easier access to things like fishing gear.
In order to keep everything, a person uses a bungee rope system (
He\'s a hunter. he wants easy access.
This will also provide a place for dogs or children to ride.
Forward partition> we need to know how wide it needs to be in order to make the forward partition.
> Find Station 6 feet first.
Measure and mark the 6 inch behind it.
This will be the front of the rear partition.
> Marks measured from the bow you just made to the bow 4 feet (
I like to add a few inches to it, like 4 feet 4 inch for extra space for boots.
This will help if your leg is longer than the average leg)
And mark the center line.
This will be the rear surface of the front partition. (
I made all my kayaks with the gama sealed bucket hatch on the bow.
This is the best place to store car keys, wallets and anything else you want to carry and dry with you, but no touch is required when paddling.
To make sure the hatch fits, I installed the hatch on the boat head of the kayak as much as possible.
This let me know how far my partition can go forward.
Kettle, lunch, camera, binoculars, phone, GPS, jacket, sun screen, sunglasses, and so on are all in the hatch behind the cockpit, so I can catch them quickly on board. )
> Measure the top rail at the front partition mark and remember this size. (
Write it down after measuring twice! )
> Measure the depth of the hull from the bottom of the rib to the top of the rib.
> Find a piece of corner trash from which you can cut out squares that are deep enough and wide enough.
> Cut out the panel and mark it as \"front partition \".
The front compartment of the rear compartment is a vertical part, and the rear compartment is composed of a bunch of blocks.
This is a great place for you to install the fish pole rack and drag rope anchor.
> The width between the first rib at the partition mark after measurement.
> Do this for each layer and add all the lengths together.
> Use the waste panel left after rib cutting to measure 4 inch from each end of the straight edge of the waste.
> Capture a line between the two marks you just made,> measure from one end to the size you added before, add a few inches (cm)
Total and mark on the chalk line.
Wire cut along the chalk and stop at the mark you just made.
> Cut off the 4 \"section at the mark.
> Measure the size between the first ribs of the rear partition and cut off part of the 4 \"beam.
> Use sureform to shape it into a shape that fits closely with the ribs.
> Do the same for the next two layers of ribs. (
If there is too much cutting, install a section to fill the gap and glue it in the glue step)
The bow and stern have gaps at the end of the rib, and if you open the end like I do, use a part of the waste to track the triangles needed to fill those gaps and make the end strong.
This is important because there will be the most bumps and bangs at the end and they will give you solid foam to secure your handle and rope anchor ring.
> For the bow, use the waste part of the place where you meet at the end of the previous two layers of ribs.
I fill the corner of the first layer with the end of the second layer, and the end of the first layer fills the tip of the second layer.
> You may need to unlock each layer and track the end of the ribs to the bottom of the waste panel.
Save the cut skewers so that they can be reassembled during the glue phase.
> Place the waste part on the rib and try to align one side of the waste with the inside of the rib.
I like to extend my end block to at least 6 inch on board.
> Use the tip of the drywall saw to track the inner edge of the other rib to the bottom of the waste section. .
> Cut off the end block and use sureform to shape it into a tightly fit shape.
> Now, repeat this for all the rib layers of the bow and use the butterfly scarph joint to fix the bow triangle to the main deck at the bottom of the boat.
After the glue is cured, remove the tape.
Check the side ribs you cut down, and if you\'re like me, some are thicker than others.
Select the thickest two ribs and label them on the bottom.
The two thinnest ribs will be the top.
The remaining two are middle layers.
Put the bottom ribs on top of the bottom of the boat.
Align the tail end of the boat so that the rib is flush with the Stern at the bottom, and now slide the rib to the outside so that it hangs for half an inch, starting from the stern, fix it in place every few feet with bamboo ske to keep the entire length half an inch outstanding.
Now select a full bow V and use the part of the \"waste\" foam to place it on the bow of the ship and on a bottom rib as shown.
You want the point of the bow V to overlap half an inch with the bow. (
This will give the bow \"rake \")
Track the V\'s legs to the front end of the bottom rib, cut off the covered rib part, and the bow V should fit well with the \"bird\" on the rib \". (
If you cut too much, trim off some of the removed foam and slide it into the gap to stay fairly tight.
Now put the second rib on the bow V and the first rib.
Overlapping with the half inch side, the tail of the second rib should overlap with the first rib.
Trim the second rib and have a tight joint on the first rib at the stern.
Now fix the second rib in the proper position, overlap half an inch along the side, but flush at the stern and trace the other leg of V back to the rib.
Cut out the tracked part and check the alignment between the V and the center line.
Once the first layer is fixed in place, follow along the inner edge to make sure you put everything back where you want it later.
For the middle level of the ribs, start from the opposite side of what you do at level 1, keep the stern flush, and cut the opposite stern overlap from level 1 overlap, in this way, the stern has staggered operating circles, providing more power for the entire assembly.
When you get to the top floor, the outside edge of the rib should be set from the last half inch to get it rolling home.
This will make boating easier when done.
Do not do this with the points of the bow, it should still overlap forward, remove the remaining waste parts from the bow section and use them to represent the V points at the top, trim them into shapes as needed.
After you are satisfied with the symmetry on both sides, fix the foam in the appropriate position.
Yes, there\'s a boat in all the bubbles!
Just like an old canoe builder can look at a tree and see the canoe locked inside, there is a functional foam boat inside all the foam layer cakes that look rough and ugly.
First close the edge of the steps in the hull and gradually thin the hull from the bottom to the top of the side rib. (
Easier to do and see if the hull is upside down)
Sureform or port freight shutdown can do this, but not as fast or easy as a power plane.
Often step back and observe where the highs are along the hull to avoid doing the lows.
On the head of the ship, the cone extends from the bottom to the top of the deck.
I also did this at the stern to help the stern lift on any of the next waves.
Do not make the tip of the bow very sharp, because the foam is not very strong, it is easy to break in thin parts and sharp edges.
Instead, give the bow a blunt circle.
In any case, it will cost 99% of its life to leave the water.
From the flat bottom to the side, from the side to the top deck, there is a good radius, which will make the transition easier to lay the fabric and the Hull easier to pass through the water.
Smoothing the inside edge of the cockpit and partition, I found that the ice cream spoon is best suited for engraving the inside corner.
If you make a turf or have a crack that you want to fill in, fill them with a light weight spackle and polish it smooth.
In order to make the end a dry storage space available, we need to install a top on the hull and add some entrance hatch.
As we are using the remaining half of the 4x8 panels cut off in the first step, these decks will be strong enough to stand or sit on them.
If you do not use the extra panel of the first step, see if there is enough waste to make the bow deck after cutting the ribs.
Pick up foam board put ship head.
Since we also want to get the stern deck out of this section, track the hull to the underside of the foam board and try to fit the stern deck onto the panel, you may need a small filler to make a part of the deck, which won\'t be a problem if you use a butterfly scarf joint.
Save any big pieces of foam for the next ship!
Since the front hatch does not have an error range if gama seal cover is installed, I made a small hole roughly through the front deck in the middle of the hole position.
Bamboo skewers were placed on the deck, and I reached in and traced the sides of the Hull back to the bottom of the front deck.
Then remove the skewers, flip the deck and track the gama seal cover ring using the tracking line as the locator.
Then dig out the holes to make sure there is a good fit on the deck ring.
The rear hatch is not so important in position, so I left them later.
Secure the deck in place with skewers and weigh them with bricks for a good bond.
Fill any gaps on the edge of the deck with scrap and glue.
Since the deck is stuck above the side through the cockpit area, the use of sections and foam debris make the cockpit track the same height as the bow and stern deck.
Glue the filler together with GG and pin and weigh it as needed to get a good bonding effect.
Trim the rough edges of the deck to match the contours of the hull.
Because you don\'t want to waste all the space at the end (
You will also place the car keys, wallet, camera, lunch, delicious cold drinks, dry towels, etc. )
You will want to add some gama sealed cabin openings to the ship.
Follow the instructions I gave in this album to make a waterproof hatch for your ship, which is much cheaper than any cabin opening you find in the ocean supply catalogue or in the store.
The Gama seal cover is designed to be stuck on a standard five gallon plastic bucket, making it a sealed storage container for water and gas.
I bought them at the local black Home Depot for $8 and I also found them at some white Lao hotels for the same price.
You can also find them on Amazon.
Com and the website of plastic containers in 7 colors.
> Gama sealed barrel cover allows you to do another trick for the expedition paddle, and in the last picture on the top, pay attention to the 5 gallon barrels in the deck hole.
Pack the container and put the bucket in.
We use buckets instead of expensive dry bags, although dry bags can also work in holes. (
Like a 5 gallon kettle in a mouse boat ring)
With the gama sealing ring in the saw fish, the buckets are firmly held and they do not fall off unless the hull is upside down, even then the buckets float. -
To make the gama seal cover into the deck hatch: Trim the outer flange that locks the rim on a five-gallon barrel, remove the giant O-ring that seals the rim on the barrel lip.
Leave one or two outer flanges to help lock the edges on the hull of the ship.
Find the right size from the partition, use the tape measure as close as possible to the cockpit mounting Hatch, also use the tape measure to mark the center of the deck panel, grab the edge of the gama seal cover, find where it will be centered on the deck panel and stay away from the partition board.
Now bring the gama sealing ring and use it to track the holes in the deck hatch.
Track as closely as possible around the smaller end of the ring.
Cut along with a drywall saw.
Trim off the area as needed to fit well on the gama seal edge and the small gap will help to place the glue between the ring and the foam deck.
Don\'t stick the edges to the deck!
Put the finished Hatch on one side if the kayak is tied to the carrying rod at the top of the roof and the force is in the narrow area, they will continue on the fabric skin onFoam, such as the cockpit track.
To avoid these dents, I added 1/4 plywood to the insde edge of the cockpit track.
When the ship hits the waves, the ship bends, and the wood track on the edge of the cockpit needs to keep the hull from bending too much.
I made my tracks with plywood shards, and each of the tracks about 1 feet m from the front of the cockpit had a break.
The force of the hull bending causes the fabric skin to tear at every break of the track.
If you use a segmented cockpit track (
Mixing sticks, etc)
, You need to have another layer of wood bridging at each break on the rails.
Another section of plywood, mixing rod, etc. with a length of 6 inch (
Rest 3 inch on each side)
Will take care of any pressure.
For additional strength, you can insert the rails into each partition, you can glue them together first, or insert the gaps into the partition and seal the tracks into the partition using GG.
The 5 gallon barrel mixer bar at the paint counter in the home improvement store can be used free of charge, and you need one every time you go (
I asked a worker to give one to each of my children as a simulated sword)
Cheap sticks are also available, but not free. (
I noticed that Home Depot is now selling sticks near the paint counter and I was wondering if all of you asked them to doubt)
You want to make sure that the wood is flush with the upper edge of the rail so that it protects it, and I mount my straps a little high and then polish them smooth with the track, to get the perfect match.
Fix both ends and middle of the track with a drywall screw screwed into the foam, so that the track does not slide when clamping.
I like to connect the track to the foam with gorilla glue, I use PLp and both work and GG is easier.
I have a bucket full of cheap spring clips from port freight, but don\'t use them any more because one or two parts fly every time I use them.
Replace them with about 4 inch PVC pipes cut into 1.
I have 5 inch pieces of sawzall.
Cheaper and more reliable.
Place more paint mixer sticks outside the hull and the clips will land there to prevent the foam from breaking.
now start the step of cutting all foam layers into a solid ship.
Arrange your fabric part to get the best coverage of the hull and you want the bottom part to wrap around each side above the waterline.
Due to the thinner fabric, I chose the sheets to cover the Hull as they would form a lighter layer.
The sheets are not that strong, and from time to time there will be rocks hitting and tearing on the fabric and squeezing the foam.
You can put up with dents because they don\'t hurt anything, or fill the dents with some light spackle, polish the spackle smooth when drying, sprinkle a few inches of sand around the spackle, then stick a patch to the dent with more external paint.
Or with heavier fabric.
Using canvas drops like Home Depot will make the skin harder and eventually use more paint and weight.
After planning the layout, mark the shape of the fabric using a pen or marker pen.
It will be very convenient when you try to smooth the fabric into glue.
Take some time to read the fiberglass instructions for the entire poor and when we use the foam we will use the TBII method.
I use large or king sheets for thrift stores as they cover most of the area.
The sheets I was looking for were mostly cotton, not as stretched and thicker.
You can use the fitted sheets (
Elastic in the corner)
But the tablet is the best.
I cut off any thick seams or edges because they leave a hard block on the hull.
Dump a large amount of TBII into the paint roll tray, use the economical paint roll, roll the TBII coating onto the foam, starting from the bottom of the hull near the stern, as it is flat and easy to learn.
If you leave a flat stern on your boat like I did, start from the covered Stern, start from the stern, wrap the fabric around each side of the boat, slice the wrinkles and overlap the edges, make everything smooth.
I try to do this with scrap from previous work, use an old pillowcase if you don\'t, or cut off a corner of the big sheet.
You want something big enough to completely cover the stern panel and overlap a few inches on both sides.
Tag the fabric to help you remember how you want it to be placed when you glue it.
Roll the glue to the stern when you can see that every hole in the foam made by Werner 250 has a glue point, and when putting the fabric into the glue with your alignment mark, you have the right amount of glue. Then pull the fabric smooth with your gloved hand and process any bubbles or wrinkles from the middle to the edge.
Roll the glue onto the panel around the stern, enough to glue the extra fabric down.
Wrinkles appear at the corners, slice the top of each wrinkle with a blade, and glue the upper edge (boat upper)
On the lower edge.
Some corners need multiple slit to flatten it, don\'t give up until it\'s all down.
Work at the stern and then give TBII some time to get ready before entering the next panel.
10 minutes should be enough.
Now, cover the large sheets at the bottom of the hull with queen or king sized sheets, and the diagonal lines will cover the entire bottom of the boat, up to 12 footers.
Fold the last 3 feet fabric from the tail of the ship and roll only a layer of TBII on the bottom plate to save the sides for later.
Fold the fabric back onto the glue, start working from the stern, smooth any wrinkles on the fabric with a gloved hand, and press the fabric firmly into the glue.
Once your fabric becomes smooth, pick up the unglued fabric from the bow end and fold it back to the adhesive fabric at the stern.
Pull back the last 2 inch laid on the glue, then roll on the other two to 3 feet glue, put the fabric into the glue, start working from the anchor end of the fabric already in the glue, extend to the edge along the middle of the fabric.
When the fabric crosses the edge of the bottom, you can hang it up and glue it with glue.
If your fabric is too short to cover the entire panel, please overlap the next part by two or 3 inch and start the next part.
Once the bottom is open, start on one side.
Due to the curve of the hull, wrinkles appear after the fabric is pulled into the glue.
Cut the center or side of the wrinkles with a sharp razor, then stick one edge of the cut to the other with a small brush, so that the wrinkles are now flat.
Roll the glue onto the fabric and on the fabric it will overlap with the other part to do this by folding the overlap and rolling the glue to the back part of the fold.
Avoid glue penetration into the fabric as much as possible, as this will prevent the paint from sticking to the fabric and filling the fabric\'s tissue.
Trim the overhanging fabric with scissors where needed.
One of the places where I use heavy canvas drops on this kayak is the cockpit floor, I want the maximum strength and protection of the floor, as well as non-slip handling.
I cut the floor canvas 2 inch wider than the cockpit so it overlaps the sheets used to cover the side of the cockpit.
This overlap is the way the fabric of different parts becomes a piece of skin when bonded together.
Once the floor fabric is applied with glue on the bottom, give the glue enough time to solidify to lock the bottom fabric in place. (
About half an hour depending on temperature and humidity)
Glue the end of the cockpit canvas in place.
Cut corners from the center of the side, end and bottom tripartite joints at a certain angle, wrapping the fabric from the end to the side.
Once the end fabric is in place, glue the sides. in place.
I trim the cockpit canvas at the bottom of the cockpit track, then cover the track with long cotton sheets, overlap the canvas on the inside, and the edges on the bottom overlap on the outside.
Once the top deck fabric glue is cured, I cut the fabric out of the deck hole with a razor and install the gama sealed deck hatch in place.
I cut the crack on the deck and locked the label on the rim to the deck.
Use PLp to glue the ring to the deck, lay a PLp bead around the edge near the top, then press the edge onto the deck to align the lock tag in the deck slot.
When the PLp is cured, screw the deck hatch into the rim to maintain the shape and lay bricks on the top for a good seal.
Unlike the thick canvas I use on the tear drops where pmf I can cover plywood, thin sheet Cotton won\'t hold too much paint and only needs two layers of paint at most, draw it in the color you want from the beginning.
Use the paint roller and tray to roll over the paint in the color you want.
Once you apply a thin fabric, you can change the color, but it will never stick together like the first layer.
I used to have a red, white, blue hull, and now it\'s blue, yellow, my favorite combination.
When paddling, I found that Sawfish tends to walk from one side to the other, and I need a way to make the kayak go straight, so I came up with a plastic ske.
This skeg is a bit small and while I can get the kayak to where I need it with a little extra muscle, it is small for safety. (
My wife recently encountered strong winds in Sawfish and ended up on the downwind coast, she couldn\'t make the bow wind no matter how hard she was)
At the same time, some of our friends are also in the same pond, and since I added long strips to their saw fish kayaks, they were able to come back.
In their case, the strip extends from under the front partition to almost the end of the stern.
This seems to be a good length that doesn\'t cause the problem of the bow only being placed on the beach to get out of the boat.
However, their foam strip caused another problem because the extra foam pushed the stern of the kayak so it was not in the water.
This causes the bows to drop in the water and slow them down.
I tried a foam-made stripe on the saw fish but found it slowed the boat down.
You may have noticed foam strips on the outer edges that some people have added to replicate the design on a plastic kayak.
It turns out that the extra edges that are molded into plastic housing are not intended to stabilize or track, but rather to prevent the deformation of thin plastic housing in water.
It makes sense that the foam bars make the boats slower because they cause resistance.
Look at the way fish are designed, they have smooth bodies and thin fins to reduce resistance.
Plastic fins reproduce this better than any other way.
> The longer you need a plastic board, the better.
The set of port freight is perfect for me, the set is about $9.
> On my son\'s boat I had to find a source for another cutting board as my local port shipping company hasn\'t restocked the cutting board for a while.
I found smaller cutting boards in dollar store.
I can make three fins with each cutting plate, which is cheaper than the port cargo fins.
For the 12 feet sawfish, I only need three of the $1 cutting board.
I dug out the foam on my son\'s boat with a smaller, thinner cutting board, my screwdriver blade is too wide, his boat is orange,
Want a skill that you can taste so bad but can\'t afford to buy or think you didn\'t build one?
Then I have a few questions for you.
Can you cut the bagels with a hard crust with a knife, fold the pieces, stick the sandwich with mayonnaise, kebab meat and vegetables, cut the thin fabric with scissors, stretch the wrinkles from the sheets, and roll paint on the wall?
You can build this ship!
Unlike most vessel plans that require you to read and learn, it requires you to purchase or have a large number of tools to learn a brand new language dedicated to vessel building.
I designed the ship and wrote the article as simple as possible.
You don\'t need any shipbuilding books or any tools.
You can find everything you need to build this boat in hardware, Internet and discount stores.
When you are done, you will be a real shipbuilder and have an excellent ship to show it.
While I have built a lot of plywood kayaks, from simple free designs called rat-catching boats to tandem kayaks with quick features, called Larsboat, they all have some problems.
They are made of plywood because I am cheap and don\'t buy expensive marine plywood, so cheap plywood has to be careful otherwise it will fail in a few years.
The purpose of my design of this ship is to use as little wood as possible, and it is almost indestructible, it does not rot, and it does not sink even if you make a hole in the ship.
I specifically discuss kayaking on the FB page, such as \"kayak DIY projects and tutorials\", if _ id = 15584874949995 if _ t = feedback _ reaction _ generic, \"Look at the front of my kayak\", \"Duckworks\", \"plywood pirates\", \"skinny hull canoe and kayak sailing \", \"Kayak building\" if _ id = 15582029638156if_t = group_activity, I like to see photos of people on the water, I believe the ship can get more people into the water for less than any other plan.
In addition to how easy it is to build this ship for the first time, it is also lighter than any other type of ship.
If it\'s hard for you to put your kayak on a roof shelf, or hate to take the boat to any distance because of its weight, then Sawfish is what you want.
The weight is under 30 lbs, easy to carry at any distance, and easy to mount the roof rack.
I designed it for my parents who have all retired and found themselves unwilling or unable to deal with their current stress (sit on top)kayaks.
Despite the simple construction and low technical content, the Sawfish is not slow, I usually cruise at 4 miles per hour on GPS and can sprint to more than 5 miles per hour.
I can also stand up in Sawfish, although I would not recommend doing so unless you have a good balance and don\'t mind getting wet.
Due to unusual building materials, the price of Sawfish will not be high compared to any kayaks you can buy or build.
I have built six Sawfish so far, and my best estimate of the cost of materials is $125 to $150. One builder (
Float and Sawgundo)
He said he built two kayaks for $175.
Depending on what you can search or lie around, you may do better.
One of my most common questions about Sawfish is \"how strong/durable is it?
\"The last photo shows Sawfish holding my 180 (81kg)
Hanging between two cars.
I did this two years ago and still use Sawfish now, no problem.
I was surfing on York beach in Maine last summer.
The surf started, the wave of the waves crossed my head, and the saw fish passed without any problem.
This summer, I plan to eat Ze fish on some mild white water on the Sako river and I will let you know.
The ship was built with what I only found in Home Depot, Wal-Mart, and US port shipments, and it can all be found in the places of Lao and most likely mennard.
I don\'t know what stores you have in other countries, but if you have a hardware store nearby, most of them can be found there, although it may not be the cost I can get here. (
With the exception of the kalifoynya People\'s Republic, where there is no foam, the flame retardant added to it can lead to instant death or something like that, which is just another reason to escape the country before the big fire! )
First you need foam, I build these boats with XPS foam (
Extruded polystyrene
, Although the pearl-shaped white foam is cheaper and sometimes easier to get, it is not that strong and will soak in water.
XPS is a closed foam that does not absorb water even if cut or cut.
You can ask your store to order some 2 \"XPS for you, but most people seem to find that the store will expect you to buy the entire tray for $33 each, 24 sheets or so, you will see nearly $1,000!
This is enough for 12 Sawfish kayaks! ! ! {
Ask the full time heat preservation installer to make some people lucky and others find asking about the construction site.
It turns out that most panels are thrown because they use the corner of the paper}
What you need is :-
4x8 feet 2 \"two pieces of thick foam. (1. 21 x 2. 43 m 50. 8 mm)-
The biggest bottle of gorilla glue you can get, I found an 18 oz bottle of glue enough for a boat.
If you want to build a few ships, then buy another bottle.
I ordered the Gorilla Glue in 72 oz package (
Four bottles of 18 ounces)
They deliver free shipping from Home Depot to the nearest store or my home.
Please note that the glue will thicken and solidify in the bottle due to humidity, so don\'t buy too much, just something you can use in a few months. -
Old sheets, fabric remnants or canvas drops. (
The more synthesis in the fabric, the harder the glue is to stick to the fabric, and the harder the paint is to stick to the fiber)
Ask around the hospital, nursing home or hotel laundry and you may get some free, torn or dirty sheets.
I bought mine at a charity thrift store, looking for an apartment the size of a queen or king (
No elastic edges installed)
And it\'s thicker and less elastic.
Some people use fine linen, or even linen, just remember that the thicker and heavier it is. -
Bamboo string ,(
Sold in kitchen and food stores)-
The gallon tank of Titebond II-
1 gallon of exterior paint, check the oops paint racks in the paint department every time you visit, they may have the color you want and the price is much cheaper. -two (or three)
The gama sealed barrel cover of the Home Depot paint department is stored here in black.
I found the white one in a restaurant.
2 \"or wider plastic packaging tape.
Tape, masking tape, etc. can also workgloves-
Plastic cutting board-
One or two tubes of PLpremium building adhesive, 3x is the best and cheaper (
You can skip this and save money with Gorilla Glue)-
1 \"1/4\" plywood, cheap wooden patio sticks, etc.
You need a little more than 8 feet, though. (
Every time you visit the paint department, ask for a 5 gallon paint bucket mixer stick or two, and in a few visits you\'ll have plenty of time to make defensesdent rails)-
Nylon straps from a few feet wide of 3/4 to 1 for making handles
About 1 feet PEX plastic pipe or PVC pipe to make the handle more comfortable
4 or 5 feet of 1. 25 or 1.
5 inch PVC pipe. (
This is to make the tools to install the pole rack and build 4 Fishing Rod racks on your boat.
Even if you don\'t fish like me, they are a convenient place to install sun umbrellas or lights operated with batteries at night.
I heard that most fishing rods are suitable for one.
25 inch of the pipeline, but a few brands need 1. 5\" pipe)tools:-Safety glasses-dust mask-
Warner 250 wallpaper removal tool-
Hacksaw drywall-shureform -
Flat cutters-
Bricks, paint cans, old heavy objects, or a pile of 5-pound rocks ,(
I call them gravity fixtures)-
Paint roller handle, tray and roller-
While you can build a saw fish without this, it\'s much more difficult to make a smooth boat using only the shureform, and it takes longer. -
Fixture saw you can do all the cutting with a drywall saw, but it won\'t be so easy or fast and there won\'t be much confusion. -tape measure-
10 feet long 3/4 \"PVC pipe-
Pencil Carpenter, marker pen, ink pen-
Great measure-chalk line-
Mixing board folding good things
Plastic hanger-
Scoop ice cream spoon (
For the engraving of those inner corners, a large metal spoon can also be used)-caulking gun-scissors-razor knife -wood rasp-
1/2 shovel or drill-power drill-
You will always come across the fact that plywood has a slow 8 \'long, short boat.
To make the plywood long enough to form a quick shape, you have to attach two or three panels together.
While there are a lot of ways to do this, the best way is to call it the scarph joint, which I \"invented\" my own for making longer foam plates.
It\'s actually a \"butt\" joint, but I like to call it a \"butt\" joint ,(
The degree of bending of the butt joints is different from the rest of the plywood, so they must be placed in the middle of the boat, where the curves are minimal and the scarph joints bend like the rest of the panel, can be placed anywhere.
Since the butterfly joint can be bent the same as the rest of the panel, I call it the scarph joint)
First, punch the face to be glued using the wallpaper scoring tool, which will provide you with the best possible glue joints.
Rub the end of the punch with your hand to remove the looseness of any small piece of foam tear.
Lay as closely as possible along the connecting line the part to be connected together.
Run a piece of tape along the length of the joint and you want the tape to extend to both ends of the joint a few inches.
Now fold a part of the foam back to the top of the other part with adhesive tape as a hinge.
From the top of one panel to the bottom of the other, then apply gorilla glue in a saw pattern, which will allow the glue to enter as many areas as possible.
Fold down the top panel again.
Flip the two panels so that the adhesive tape hinge is located at the bottom of the joint.
Place the attached foam board on a flat surface and apply heavy objects along the joint to force the joint to close.
Fold the end of the tape to capture the glue coming out of the end of the joint.
Once the Gorilla Glue is cured, remove the tape and remove the sand from the beard (
Glue running out and curing from the joint)
I made a short video to help explain this step.
In the three years since I built the first saw fish, I have built a few more and are currently doing stretching work for two saw fish.
The design of the bow seems to be the hardest for many to understand, and in any case, I have to come up with a new way to make a cut pattern in series.
I ended up coming up with a better idea to make the hull and am now building a new sawfish using a new cut and build pattern.
I thought I was smart and then I got a facebook post from James Brown.
He was building a saw fish kayak and came up with the same idea of making side ribs.
Then he really came up with a better idea.
I will revise the Instructure again to reflect the idea of Jame.
I\'m going to keep the old ones for a while because there seems to be some people building saw fish right now and I don\'t want to confuse them, but if you plan to build saw fish, use this pattern, not old!
It\'s much easier.
The best part!
You can make ships of almost any shape or length with a new cutting plan!
Short and fat, long and thin, just a little imagination!
Just figure out the length and width you want, make a foam board that is big enough and wide enough to fit the whole bottom, and then copy it as I showed for Sawfish and do the side rib.
It\'s not easy.
First find a plane where you can place the two foam boards from start to finish.
If you don\'t have an area 16 feet long, cut a panel in half at 4 feet.
> Use the wallpaper piercer to prepare the foam on both sides to be glued. (
Rub the surface with your hands afterwards to get loose foam blocks)
> Lay a piece of plastic or wax paper under the seam to avoid sticking to the floor.
> Follow the steps in the butterfly scarph joint video to make a 12 feet foam panel> the end of the folding tape to prevent the glue from draining the end of the joint and applying weight along the joint.
> After the glue is cured (overnight)
Remove weight> from 12 feet (3. 6576 m)
Side of the foam panel, marking 14 inch per end (35. 56 cm)from one side.
> Snap the center line to the foam panel using chalk lines or straight edges.
Center Line Video> mark each foot using a tape measure (304. 8 mm)
Along the center line.
> Arrange the hull size from the center line.
Bow measurement and marking 1 inch (25. 4 mm)
To 6 feet on both sides of the center line (182. 88 cm)
Station Test mark 14 \"(35. 56 cm)
Measure and mark each side of 2 from the center line to the stern \"(5. 08 cm)
On each side of the center line, the bow can be either end of the center line.
> Now put your PVC pipe (batten)
And use bricks (ducks)
Arrange the pipes along the points you just marked.
Make sure you put the duck (bricks)
The same position when drawing each side, which makes the two sides have the same curve (fair)
, Stack bricks as needed to prevent them from being moved by the bending resistance of the PVC pipe.
When you track the batten on the foam, hold the pencil vertically.
Since the hull is 12 (3. 6576 m)
Feet long, PVC pipe is only 10 feet, I found it would be better to start at the stern and start at one end of the pipe at station 12, keep it at the midpoint of the 14 inch mark and then put the other end at 12 \"(30. 48 cm)
From the center line.
Trace the outside of the Batten so that the marking of the midpoint, bow or stern is on the outside of the Batten.
Do the other side of the stern and move to the bow.
Start at one end of batten on Zero Station marking 1 \"on the center line, let batten run around the midpoint mark again, and then align the other end of batten with the line you have traced.
> Measuring 18 \"using tape measure \"(45. 72 cm)
From the edge of the hull pattern, you just drew it down on the foam at the bow and stern. Mark each 3\" (7. 62 cm)
From the edge of the pattern to 18 \"(45. 72 cm).
Do so at the bow and stern.
> Now, use the wallpaper removal tool to rate the surface of each foam board, and each hole left by the spike on the tool will allow the glue to penetrate deeper into the foam.
I prefer to think of these holes as thousands of small nails that stick together.
The stripping of the fabric to modify the vessel later proved to be true.
> Use a drywall saw or a clamp saw, cut along each line, always, so you remove the smaller part first, which gives you a larger part, use your hands, knees, teeth, elbows, etc.
Don\'t cut the center line! (
If you do, stick it together with another butterfly scarf)
> Match the bottom blank with 3 \"marks at both ends of the panel.
> Trace the edge of the blank at the bottom.
> Repeat for all six ribs.
> Be careful when handling ribs, they are easy to break if you catch the ribs from one end.
When moving them, put them in the middle and they don\'t break so easily.
Pick up all six ribs.
If you are like me, some of them will be thicker and some will be narrower.
Try to divide them into three pairs.
> The thickest will be the bottom, the thinnest will be the top, and the remaining two will be the middle.
> Copy the center line end of the bottom blank to the other side of the foam.
> Capture the center line to the other side of the foam using chalk lines.
> Take the two thickest ribs and place them on the top of the bottom blank so that there is a rib on each side of the bottom blank.
> Align the tail of the bottom blank and side rib to flush.
> Use the fist number of the first finger as a measurement tool to set the overlap of the first rib at the consistent depth of the stern.
> Fix the tail of the rib in the appropriate position with bamboo ske> set the overlap of the 9 feet station side ribs to the same depth using the same fingertip.
> Fix the ribs in place at 9 feet station> repeat this operation at 9 feet station and bow.
Use the same fingertip size> to track the inner edge of the first rib to the bottom blank.
> Cut the inner tip of the first rib to match the center line.
> Using the same fingertip as the measurement, first fix the other side of the rib to the stern, then 9 feet and 3 feet stations> remove the skewers from the bow end of the first rib> align the bow end of the other rib, wire cut along the center> push the closed joint between the rib bow tips, and fix it in place.
> Save the parts you cut off and use them later.
> Cut off the skewers along the top of the first layer of ribs so they are flush with foam.
Save ends because you will use them on the next level.
Use a flush cut clamp to cut at the end of the skewer at a certain angle to form a new point on the skewer.
You should be able to reuse each skewer several times.
Ribs on the second and third floors.
> Continue to align the ends of the ribs so that they are all flush with the tail of the bottom blank.
This gives you a flat stern fitted with a rudder or motor bracket, or just gives you extra volume that allows you to camp on board, etc.
> To give extra volume to the hull at both ends, set the same overlap size at the stern with your fingertips, fix it in the proper position with skewers> now go to 6 feet station, align the outside of the rib so it can have the first layer.
> Go to the bow and set the overlap with the fingertip size again.
> Don\'t worry about how many bubbles overlap between the bottom blank and the front of the first rib, which is intentional.
> Trim the second rib on the bow so that it will be cut off even if there is a center line on the bow. (
Like you did on the first floor).
> Repeat this operation on the other side of the second layer, and repeat this operation on the third layer.
> The Hull should have further sloping steps at the bow and stern of the ship, but there is no flash in the middle.
This makes the paddle easy, but gives it extra volume at the end to help it rise in the waves and wake up.
Before you go further!
Use the tip of a pencil, pen, marker pen or drywall saw to track the inside of each rib to the layer below.
This will allow you to quickly put the glue back in what you want as it flows around.
If you build the kayak the way I show you will want a front partition to support the end of the front deck and the back partition to support the front of the back deck.
The deck gives you dry places to store things, and if the kayak is flipped, or everything is soaked with rain, spray or waves, it\'s a great way to prevent things from losing.
The partitions also make the kayak stronger and less flexible.
Some people make an open area behind the rear partition to ship oversized gear, or have easier access to things like fishing gear.
In order to keep everything, a person uses a bungee rope system (
He\'s a hunter. he wants easy access.
This will also provide a place for dogs or children to ride.
Forward partition> we need to know how wide it needs to be in order to make the forward partition.
> Find Station 6 feet first.
Measure and mark the 6 inch behind it.
This will be the front of the rear partition.
> Marks measured from the bow you just made to the bow 4 feet (
I like to add a few inches to it, like 4 feet 4 inch for extra space for boots.
This will help if your leg is longer than the average leg)
And mark the center line.
This will be the rear surface of the front partition. (
I made all my kayaks with the gama sealed bucket hatch on the bow.
This is the best place to store car keys, wallets and anything else you want to carry and dry with you, but no touch is required when paddling.
To make sure the hatch fits, I installed the hatch on the boat head of the kayak as much as possible.
This let me know how far my partition can go forward.
Kettle, lunch, camera, binoculars, phone, GPS, jacket, sun screen, sunglasses, and so on are all in the hatch behind the cockpit, so I can catch them quickly on board. )
> Measure the top rail at the front partition mark and remember this size. (
Write it down after measuring twice! )
> Measure the depth of the hull from the bottom of the rib to the top of the rib.
> Find a piece of corner trash from which you can cut out squares that are deep enough and wide enough.
> Cut out the panel and mark it as \"front partition \".
The front compartment of the rear compartment is a vertical part, and the rear compartment is composed of a bunch of blocks.
This is a great place for you to install the fish pole rack and drag rope anchor.
> The width between the first rib at the partition mark after measurement.
> Do this for each layer and add all the lengths together.
> Use the waste panel left after rib cutting to measure 4 inch from each end of the straight edge of the waste.
> Capture a line between the two marks you just made,> measure from one end to the size you added before, add a few inches (cm)
Total and mark on the chalk line.
Wire cut along the chalk and stop at the mark you just made.
> Cut off the 4 \"section at the mark.
> Measure the size between the first ribs of the rear partition and cut off part of the 4 \"beam.
> Use sureform to shape it into a shape that fits closely with the ribs.
> Do the same for the next two layers of ribs. (
If there is too much cutting, install a section to fill the gap and glue it in the glue step)
The bow and stern have gaps at the end of the rib, and if you open the end like I do, use a part of the waste to track the triangles needed to fill those gaps and make the end strong.
This is important because there will be the most bumps and bangs at the end and they will give you solid foam to secure your handle and rope anchor ring.
> For the bow, use the waste part of the place where you meet at the end of the previous two layers of ribs.
I fill the corner of the first layer with the end of the second layer, and the end of the first layer fills the tip of the second layer.
> You may need to unlock each layer and track the end of the ribs to the bottom of the waste panel.
Save the cut skewers so that they can be reassembled during the glue phase.
> Place the waste part on the rib and try to align one side of the waste with the inside of the rib.
I like to extend my end block to at least 6 inch on board.
> Use the tip of the drywall saw to track the inner edge of the other rib to the bottom of the waste section. .
> Cut off the end block and use sureform to shape it into a tightly fit shape.
> Now, repeat this for all the rib layers of the bow and use the butterfly scarph joint to fix the bow triangle to the main deck at the bottom of the boat.
After the glue is cured, remove the tape.
Check the side ribs you cut down, and if you\'re like me, some are thicker than others.
Select the thickest two ribs and label them on the bottom.
The two thinnest ribs will be the top.
The remaining two are middle layers.
Put the bottom ribs on top of the bottom of the boat.
Align the tail end of the boat so that the rib is flush with the Stern at the bottom, and now slide the rib to the outside so that it hangs for half an inch, starting from the stern, fix it in place every few feet with bamboo ske to keep the entire length half an inch outstanding.
Now select a full bow V and use the part of the \"waste\" foam to place it on the bow of the ship and on a bottom rib as shown.
You want the point of the bow V to overlap half an inch with the bow. (
This will give the bow \"rake \")
Track the V\'s legs to the front end of the bottom rib, cut off the covered rib part, and the bow V should fit well with the \"bird\" on the rib \". (
If you cut too much, trim off some of the removed foam and slide it into the gap to stay fairly tight.
Now put the second rib on the bow V and the first rib.
Overlapping with the half inch side, the tail of the second rib should overlap with the first rib.
Trim the second rib and have a tight joint on the first rib at the stern.
Now fix the second rib in the proper position, overlap half an inch along the side, but flush at the stern and trace the other leg of V back to the rib.
Cut out the tracked part and check the alignment between the V and the center line.
Once the first layer is fixed in place, follow along the inner edge to make sure you put everything back where you want it later.
For the middle level of the ribs, start from the opposite side of what you do at level 1, keep the stern flush, and cut the opposite stern overlap from level 1 overlap, in this way, the stern has staggered operating circles, providing more power for the entire assembly.
When you get to the top floor, the outside edge of the rib should be set from the last half inch to get it rolling home.
This will make boating easier when done.
Do not do this with the points of the bow, it should still overlap forward, remove the remaining waste parts from the bow section and use them to represent the V points at the top, trim them into shapes as needed.
After you are satisfied with the symmetry on both sides, fix the foam in the appropriate position.
Yes, there\'s a boat in all the bubbles!
Just like an old canoe builder can look at a tree and see the canoe locked inside, there is a functional foam boat inside all the foam layer cakes that look rough and ugly.
First close the edge of the steps in the hull and gradually thin the hull from the bottom to the top of the side rib. (
Easier to do and see if the hull is upside down)
Sureform or port freight shutdown can do this, but not as fast or easy as a power plane.
Often step back and observe where the highs are along the hull to avoid doing the lows.
On the head of the ship, the cone extends from the bottom to the top of the deck.
I also did this at the stern to help the stern lift on any of the next waves.
Do not make the tip of the bow very sharp, because the foam is not very strong, it is easy to break in thin parts and sharp edges.
Instead, give the bow a blunt circle.
In any case, it will cost 99% of its life to leave the water.
From the flat bottom to the side, from the side to the top deck, there is a good radius, which will make the transition easier to lay the fabric and the Hull easier to pass through the water.
Smoothing the inside edge of the cockpit and partition, I found that the ice cream spoon is best suited for engraving the inside corner.
If you make a turf or have a crack that you want to fill in, fill them with a light weight spackle and polish it smooth.
In order to make the end a dry storage space available, we need to install a top on the hull and add some entrance hatch.
As we are using the remaining half of the 4x8 panels cut off in the first step, these decks will be strong enough to stand or sit on them.
If you do not use the extra panel of the first step, see if there is enough waste to make the bow deck after cutting the ribs.
Pick up foam board put ship head.
Since we also want to get the stern deck out of this section, track the hull to the underside of the foam board and try to fit the stern deck onto the panel, you may need a small filler to make a part of the deck, which won\'t be a problem if you use a butterfly scarf joint.
Save any big pieces of foam for the next ship!
Since the front hatch does not have an error range if gama seal cover is installed, I made a small hole roughly through the front deck in the middle of the hole position.
Bamboo skewers were placed on the deck, and I reached in and traced the sides of the Hull back to the bottom of the front deck.
Then remove the skewers, flip the deck and track the gama seal cover ring using the tracking line as the locator.
Then dig out the holes to make sure there is a good fit on the deck ring.
The rear hatch is not so important in position, so I left them later.
Secure the deck in place with skewers and weigh them with bricks for a good bond.
Fill any gaps on the edge of the deck with scrap and glue.
Since the deck is stuck above the side through the cockpit area, the use of sections and foam debris make the cockpit track the same height as the bow and stern deck.
Glue the filler together with GG and pin and weigh it as needed to get a good bonding effect.
Trim the rough edges of the deck to match the contours of the hull.
Because you don\'t want to waste all the space at the end (
You will also place the car keys, wallet, camera, lunch, delicious cold drinks, dry towels, etc. )
You will want to add some gama sealed cabin openings to the ship.
Follow the instructions I gave in this album to make a waterproof hatch for your ship, which is much cheaper than any cabin opening you find in the ocean supply catalogue or in the store.
The Gama seal cover is designed to be stuck on a standard five gallon plastic bucket, making it a sealed storage container for water and gas.
I bought them at the local black Home Depot for $8 and I also found them at some white Lao hotels for the same price.
You can also find them on Amazon.
Com and the website of plastic containers in 7 colors.
> Gama sealed barrel cover allows you to do another trick for the expedition paddle, and in the last picture on the top, pay attention to the 5 gallon barrels in the deck hole.
Pack the container and put the bucket in.
We use buckets instead of expensive dry bags, although dry bags can also work in holes. (
Like a 5 gallon kettle in a mouse boat ring)
With the gama sealing ring in the saw fish, the buckets are firmly held and they do not fall off unless the hull is upside down, even then the buckets float. -
To make the gama seal cover into the deck hatch: Trim the outer flange that locks the rim on a five-gallon barrel, remove the giant O-ring that seals the rim on the barrel lip.
Leave one or two outer flanges to help lock the edges on the hull of the ship.
Find the right size from the partition, use the tape measure as close as possible to the cockpit mounting Hatch, also use the tape measure to mark the center of the deck panel, grab the edge of the gama seal cover, find where it will be centered on the deck panel and stay away from the partition board.
Now bring the gama sealing ring and use it to track the holes in the deck hatch.
Track as closely as possible around the smaller end of the ring.
Cut along with a drywall saw.
Trim off the area as needed to fit well on the gama seal edge and the small gap will help to place the glue between the ring and the foam deck.
Don\'t stick the edges to the deck!
Put the finished Hatch on one side if the kayak is tied to the carrying rod at the top of the roof and the force is in the narrow area, they will continue on the fabric skin onFoam, such as the cockpit track.
To avoid these dents, I added 1/4 plywood to the insde edge of the cockpit track.
When the ship hits the waves, the ship bends, and the wood track on the edge of the cockpit needs to keep the hull from bending too much.
I made my tracks with plywood shards, and each of the tracks about 1 feet m from the front of the cockpit had a break.
The force of the hull bending causes the fabric skin to tear at every break of the track.
If you use a segmented cockpit track (
Mixing sticks, etc)
, You need to have another layer of wood bridging at each break on the rails.
Another section of plywood, mixing rod, etc. with a length of 6 inch (
Rest 3 inch on each side)
Will take care of any pressure.
For additional strength, you can insert the rails into each partition, you can glue them together first, or insert the gaps into the partition and seal the tracks into the partition using GG.
The 5 gallon barrel mixer bar at the paint counter in the home improvement store can be used free of charge, and you need one every time you go (
I asked a worker to give one to each of my children as a simulated sword)
Cheap sticks are also available, but not free. (
I noticed that Home Depot is now selling sticks near the paint counter and I was wondering if all of you asked them to doubt)
You want to make sure that the wood is flush with the upper edge of the rail so that it protects it, and I mount my straps a little high and then polish them smooth with the track, to get the perfect match.
Fix both ends and middle of the track with a drywall screw screwed into the foam, so that the track does not slide when clamping.
I like to connect the track to the foam with gorilla glue, I use PLp and both work and GG is easier.
I have a bucket full of cheap spring clips from port freight, but don\'t use them any more because one or two parts fly every time I use them.
Replace them with about 4 inch PVC pipes cut into 1.
I have 5 inch pieces of sawzall.
Cheaper and more reliable.
Place more paint mixer sticks outside the hull and the clips will land there to prevent the foam from breaking.
now start the step of cutting all foam layers into a solid ship.
Arrange your fabric part to get the best coverage of the hull and you want the bottom part to wrap around each side above the waterline.
Due to the thinner fabric, I chose the sheets to cover the Hull as they would form a lighter layer.
The sheets are not that strong, and from time to time there will be rocks hitting and tearing on the fabric and squeezing the foam.
You can put up with dents because they don\'t hurt anything, or fill the dents with some light spackle, polish the spackle smooth when drying, sprinkle a few inches of sand around the spackle, then stick a patch to the dent with more external paint.
Or with heavier fabric.
Using canvas drops like Home Depot will make the skin harder and eventually use more paint and weight.
After planning the layout, mark the shape of the fabric using a pen or marker pen.
It will be very convenient when you try to smooth the fabric into glue.
Take some time to read the fiberglass instructions for the entire poor and when we use the foam we will use the TBII method.
I use large or king sheets for thrift stores as they cover most of the area.
The sheets I was looking for were mostly cotton, not as stretched and thicker.
You can use the fitted sheets (
Elastic in the corner)
But the tablet is the best.
I cut off any thick seams or edges because they leave a hard block on the hull.
Dump a large amount of TBII into the paint roll tray, use the economical paint roll, roll the TBII coating onto the foam, starting from the bottom of the hull near the stern, as it is flat and easy to learn.
If you leave a flat stern on your boat like I did, start from the covered Stern, start from the stern, wrap the fabric around each side of the boat, slice the wrinkles and overlap the edges, make everything smooth.
I try to do this with scrap from previous work, use an old pillowcase if you don\'t, or cut off a corner of the big sheet.
You want something big enough to completely cover the stern panel and overlap a few inches on both sides.
Tag the fabric to help you remember how you want it to be placed when you glue it.
Roll the glue to the stern when you can see that every hole in the foam made by Werner 250 has a glue point, and when putting the fabric into the glue with your alignment mark, you have the right amount of glue. Then pull the fabric smooth with your gloved hand and process any bubbles or wrinkles from the middle to the edge.
Roll the glue onto the panel around the stern, enough to glue the extra fabric down.
Wrinkles appear at the corners, slice the top of each wrinkle with a blade, and glue the upper edge (boat upper)
On the lower edge.
Some corners need multiple slit to flatten it, don\'t give up until it\'s all down.
Work at the stern and then give TBII some time to get ready before entering the next panel.
10 minutes should be enough.
Now, cover the large sheets at the bottom of the hull with queen or king sized sheets, and the diagonal lines will cover the entire bottom of the boat, up to 12 footers.
Fold the last 3 feet fabric from the tail of the ship and roll only a layer of TBII on the bottom plate to save the sides for later.
Fold the fabric back onto the glue, start working from the stern, smooth any wrinkles on the fabric with a gloved hand, and press the fabric firmly into the glue.
Once your fabric becomes smooth, pick up the unglued fabric from the bow end and fold it back to the adhesive fabric at the stern.
Pull back the last 2 inch laid on the glue, then roll on the other two to 3 feet glue, put the fabric into the glue, start working from the anchor end of the fabric already in the glue, extend to the edge along the middle of the fabric.
When the fabric crosses the edge of the bottom, you can hang it up and glue it with glue.
If your fabric is too short to cover the entire panel, please overlap the next part by two or 3 inch and start the next part.
Once the bottom is open, start on one side.
Due to the curve of the hull, wrinkles appear after the fabric is pulled into the glue.
Cut the center or side of the wrinkles with a sharp razor, then stick one edge of the cut to the other with a small brush, so that the wrinkles are now flat.
Roll the glue onto the fabric and on the fabric it will overlap with the other part to do this by folding the overlap and rolling the glue to the back part of the fold.
Avoid glue penetration into the fabric as much as possible, as this will prevent the paint from sticking to the fabric and filling the fabric\'s tissue.
Trim the overhanging fabric with scissors where needed.
One of the places where I use heavy canvas drops on this kayak is the cockpit floor, I want the maximum strength and protection of the floor, as well as non-slip handling.
I cut the floor canvas 2 inch wider than the cockpit so it overlaps the sheets used to cover the side of the cockpit.
This overlap is the way the fabric of different parts becomes a piece of skin when bonded together.
Once the floor fabric is applied with glue on the bottom, give the glue enough time to solidify to lock the bottom fabric in place. (
About half an hour depending on temperature and humidity)
Glue the end of the cockpit canvas in place.
Cut corners from the center of the side, end and bottom tripartite joints at a certain angle, wrapping the fabric from the end to the side.
Once the end fabric is in place, glue the sides. in place.
I trim the cockpit canvas at the bottom of the cockpit track, then cover the track with long cotton sheets, overlap the canvas on the inside, and the edges on the bottom overlap on the outside.
Once the top deck fabric glue is cured, I cut the fabric out of the deck hole with a razor and install the gama sealed deck hatch in place.
I cut the crack on the deck and locked the label on the rim to the deck.
Use PLp to glue the ring to the deck, lay a PLp bead around the edge near the top, then press the edge onto the deck to align the lock tag in the deck slot.
When the PLp is cured, screw the deck hatch into the rim to maintain the shape and lay bricks on the top for a good seal.
Unlike the thick canvas I use on the tear drops where pmf I can cover plywood, thin sheet Cotton won\'t hold too much paint and only needs two layers of paint at most, draw it in the color you want from the beginning.
Use the paint roller and tray to roll over the paint in the color you want.
Once you apply a thin fabric, you can change the color, but it will never stick together like the first layer.
I used to have a red, white, blue hull, and now it\'s blue, yellow, my favorite combination.
When paddling, I found that Sawfish tends to walk from one side to the other, and I need a way to make the kayak go straight, so I came up with a plastic ske.
This skeg is a bit small and while I can get the kayak to where I need it with a little extra muscle, it is small for safety. (
My wife recently encountered strong winds in Sawfish and ended up on the downwind coast, she couldn\'t make the bow wind no matter how hard she was)
At the same time, some of our friends are also in the same pond, and since I added long strips to their saw fish kayaks, they were able to come back.
In their case, the strip extends from under the front partition to almost the end of the stern.
This seems to be a good length that doesn\'t cause the problem of the bow only being placed on the beach to get out of the boat.
However, their foam strip caused another problem because the extra foam pushed the stern of the kayak so it was not in the water.
This causes the bows to drop in the water and slow them down.
I tried a foam-made stripe on the saw fish but found it slowed the boat down.
You may have noticed foam strips on the outer edges that some people have added to replicate the design on a plastic kayak.
It turns out that the extra edges that are molded into plastic housing are not intended to stabilize or track, but rather to prevent the deformation of thin plastic housing in water.
It makes sense that the foam bars make the boats slower because they cause resistance.
Look at the way fish are designed, they have smooth bodies and thin fins to reduce resistance.
Plastic fins reproduce this better than any other way.
> The longer you need a plastic board, the better.
The set of port freight is perfect for me, the set is about $9.
> On my son\'s boat I had to find a source for another cutting board as my local port shipping company hasn\'t restocked the cutting board for a while.
I found smaller cutting boards in dollar store.
I can make three fins with each cutting plate, which is cheaper than the port cargo fins.
For the 12 feet sawfish, I only need three of the $1 cutting board.
I dug out the foam on my son\'s boat with a smaller, thinner cutting board, my screwdriver blade is too wide, his boat is orange,
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