ring box with wooden hinge
In addition, their cost is much lower (
Not time in terms of money! ).
As a lot of people who do carpentry, I often have a lot of handyman that is too small to do anything except make a fire, so here you can use some waste firewood with too many features to burn.
This box is made of yew wood. I have already bought a lot.
Although Yew may be harmful to health, please note that --
Dust can be toxic and smoke from burning can be toxic.
If you search for Yew on the Internet, you will find that many people say that yew is toxic and dangerous, while others swear that yew is not and has been in use for decades without any problems.
In my opinion, if there may be a danger, then use the appropriate safety equipment.
I always wear a good quality mask to protect my lungs when I cut yew and sand yew, I always have a wood but I bought my expensive mask, because I will use a lot of yew.
In any case, it\'s all enough to go back to the instrucablematerial swood off cut of the main box-
Some of me are 50mm (2\")
A good size thick, suitable for ring box wood cutting for hinges
I bought some steamed mountain wool balls from ebay, so there are a lot of things nearby and mine is 10mm (0. 5\")
Crude steel/brass bars-I use 3mm (1/8\")
Diameter barDanish oilToolsTable sawRouter (
Attached to the table)
The first step is to cut your wood into a beautiful cube.
You want to look at the wood and find a nice place where there will be interesting textures/patterns and cut your work accordingly.
Since my cutouts are a strange shape, only one area is large enough to hold a cube, so I used the area.
If your wood head has no straight edges like mine, just cut carefully and make sure it\'s safe before crossing the saw.
I use sliding table extensions in stages to make straight edges and then use that edge on the fence.
My Cube ended up around 50mm (2\")all round.
I tidied up my face with a few passes on the side Sander (
I checked and the Sander on the table also has 90 degrees)
The next stage is to make some finger joints on a few pieces of wood so you can create the hinges.
I have several ways to make finger joints, both router tables and different fixtures.
I have recorded them for completeness and information.
The main difference between the fixture is that the mitre slot is required in the router table, while the other slot only needs a fence.
I just did the fixture and I explained it first so I used it only twice before.
The Mitre slot fixture includes making 90 degree L shape with plywood.
I fixed it together with a cookie joint because these are very simple and quick.
Since I need a mitre slot, I routed a slot at the top of the router table (
This is done at home and is part of my table)
, Make sure it is parallel to the table saw mitre slot, which may be useful for other fixtures, etc.
Once the L shape is set, use the table saw fence to make a small hole in the fixture with the router drill bit, which will hold a piece of wood of the same size as the diameter of the router drill bit.
You will need to set the fixture to a mitre slot when you are done.
The fixture needs to be offset twice the diameter of the router drill bit from the first hole and I have torn a piece of wood about 14mm (my bit was 7mm)
Get the exact width with a plane and some cursor calipers.
This can then be used on the table saw fence and the fixture is fixed to the herringbone slot runner.
To do this, tear a piece of wood with the same width and depth as the mitre slot.
Place the wood runners on several washers so that they will be proud of the table, stick them to the top with glue, and place the L clamp on the top of the runner, holding the wait for the glue to set.
Once set up, flip and secure further with the countersunk screws.
It\'s easier to use it than to make or explain how to make it!
Simply attach the wood of the joint to the small piece of wood in the fixture, protect it and pass through the router.
This slot can then be placed on small wood and continue to run through the router again.
If you want to read, there are similar fixtures everywhere on the Internet, and some have videos.
The second fixture I have been using for a few years now also includes an L-shaped fixture.
One side of the fixture has a precise vertical wooden strip and the other side has a toggle fixture.
You also need some wood bars with the same width as the router bit.
This can be done with a planing/planing bed or plane, they have to be very precise, although they are all just a small part too large and the error will increase soon.
When cutting the joint, you refer the side of the wood to the vertical part and clamp it with a toggle clamp.
Set the fence on your router table (
Just a little bit of wood)
And set the router bit to cut at the edge of the wood.
Once cut, place two pieces of wood between the fixture and the fence to pass it all through the width of the two router bits.
Then continue adding two lines each time until you come to the other side of the joint.
I like this method, but it does limit the width of the joint you can make (
Maximum distance between vertical bar and toggle fixture).
I used the first 21mm wide band this time (
3 * router diameter).
All you need to do is make sure the wood is well clipped with such a narrow piece. . . .
However, you can make a finger joint longer than needed and cut it as needed.
Now they need drilling and shaping once the finger joints are cut off.
I decided to use the drill bit instead of the drill bit because they were too narrow because it was accurate enough.
I marked the center point of the top joint and drilled a 3mm hole from each side, then inserted the other finger into the finger that was drilled and drilled all the way through three fingers.
I then pass the metal bars through the holes and the joints are fixed at right angles to each other.
Then a curved drill bit formed on the Sander.
Next, take apart the joint, fix it in the opposite way, and shape the other side of the joint in the same way.
The metal bar can now be cut to the width of the joint and inserted to make the hinge.
Once any sticking point is put together, it can be slowly polished off with a Sander.
Lovely wooden hinges.
Now that you have the hinges, you know how big you need your rebate/Labe to be in your wood cube.
I initially set up my normal fence on my router table and cut a slot in the middle of the wood, but the hole in the router drill bit is a bit large and the cube is stuck in the middle and stuck on the drill bit, this took a large chunk of my Wood.
It\'s too dangerous to seem to work without damaging the wood or my hands, so I have to rethink my behavior!
I decided to clip a small piece of wood on the router hole on the table and slowly lift up through the wood to form a zero gap hole.
Then I can hold another large piece of wood on the side as a fence.
I set the height of the drill bit to the depth of the hinge;
Usually, you set the height below half the depth of the hinge (
What\'s better is that the joints are farther away than on the outside, because if the lid is too deep, the lid won\'t open).
However, since I \'ve messed up the backup, I want to clean that face by reducing the width of the cube to remove the chip, so it ends up halfway through the thickness of the hinge.
After setting the height, I passed the cube once and rotated it 180 degrees and passed it again to make sure the slot was in the center.
Make a little adjustment to the fence, and pass it a few more times, the width of the slot is under the width of the hinge.
I then polished the back of the cube, tidied up my previous mistakes and set the rebate/rabbet to the correct depth.
The lid needs to be cut off now.
I cut off the top so the finished box on the table is about 1/3 to 1/4.
Then I drilled a hole in the main box and the lid and had a fostner bit on my pillar bit.
The hinge then needs to be polished to the same width as the rebate/Labe.
Do this a little bit, keep testing for tightness, and things will quickly become very loose if you don\'t.
Before gluing the hinge, I sanded the back of the box and the side of the hinge, because once the hinge is installed, the areas are not easy to polish.
The hinge is then glued to the box to ensure that the metal needle meets the joint between the cover and the main body, clamping and waiting.
Next, loosen the box and trim the end of the joint with a handsaw.
I then use sandpaper and random track Sander to polish around the box with 80, 120, 180 and 240 sandpaper.
To finish the inside, I cut several turns of recycled leather, glued to the top and bottom of the inside.
What is left now is to finish it with a few layers of Danish oil.
It turned out to be a very nice box and I like the pattern of wood and its small. Very pleased!
I will be in the woodworking competition, so please vote if you like! Thanks!