leather hinged business card holder

by:DIgao     2020-08-17
If you find yourself constantly going to trade or craft exhibitions that show your business card, this cardholder may work for you!
Load it with a card, turn it off for travel and open it to show your card in both sections
Put the same card in two parts or show two different cards!
My challenge for myself is to create a container that shows both business cards and ships them.
I go up from the bottom of the front through the box starting from 1 and end at the center of the back (photo 1).
When the box is opened to the right, the side of the box is tilted evenly upward from 1 \"to 3 on the back\" on the front, through the center of the back.
The rear of the front and the front of the rear are the same height.
When it is opened, it creates a separate display space that holds twice as many cards that the box can carry, meaning it can be used to display two different cards, or, I prefer to have you split the contents of the box into two parts, the front half is the card and the back half is the card, which means that they naturally deviate from the front of the box for easy reading.
Use the CorelDRAW design file, set the print settings and crop the box with 1/4 plywood.
I use a speed/power/frequency setting of 6/100/12 to cut 1/4 Baltic birch plywood with a 60 W Epilog Fusion laser cutter.
Use the included design file to cut the leather hinges on the laser cutter.
If you didn\'t cut the leather with a laser cutter before, please note that it smells bad --
One of YuKonstruct told me that it reminded them of the taste of the slaughterhouse. . .
It\'s a relatively small quick cut, so it\'s really not that bad.
Alternatively, you can cut the hinge with a scissors or leather cutting tool and punch it with a leather punch or awl.
First of all, put your pieces together --
It\'s always a good thing before bonding, to make sure everything is right, you have everything, you know where they need to go.
Divide the pieces into two groups and place them together at the top and bottom (photo 1).
Use a small brush to apply a little glue to the top surface of each finger joint label on the side of the part you are connecting.
Work around a group at a time, apply glue and add a piece at a time.
Once all sides of the top and bottom are glued, use the clip or thick elastic material in both directions, apply pressure and maintain the position of the joint (photos 2-6).
Let the glue dry.
Once the glue is completely dry, remove the elastic material and/or clip and gently polish the edge of the box.
Cut a 12 \"long waxed linen thread.
Flatten it by passing the last few inches of line through your nails, which will help you get through the needle.
Starting at the bottom of the box, place the hinges in the outside position and the holes are arranged neatly.
Pick up your thread needle, start on the inside of the box, and pass the needle through the second hole, from the inside of the box to the outside (photo 3 & 4).
Go back to the inside of the box through the first hole, go back to the outside by skipping a hole and going through the third hole (photo 5).
Pass the tail of the thread through the hole and make sure to grab it at least a few holes in the return thread to fix it (photos 5 & 8).
Continue this way until you reach the end of the line and the stitches are evenly filled (photo 9).
Clip the end of the line under the thread at the back to fix it and trim any excess parts at both ends, note: If you don\'t have waxed linen, you can use the button hole line, pass through a wax or candle.
The second half of the hinge is a bit tricky just because both ends are awkward there.
The stitching pattern is the same as the bottom, the only difference is that the stitching will be a little loose at first.
Once you \'ve gone about half way, you can start tightening it.
Thread mode: start internally.
Through Hole 2, hole 1, Hole 3, hole 2, hole 4, Hole 3, hole 5, etc.
When you reach the end of the hinge, if the thread is loose, tighten the end and trim any excess thread.
If you do not add a permanent close, you can skip this step.
Adding a closure to your box can be done at any time, so you can change your mind at any time.
I chose not to add a permanent close to my card box (yet).
If you want to make sure your card box remains closed during shipping, you can simply stretch the elastic band around the box (photo 1)
Or wrap it up with a Velcro strap or even a small belt.
To get a more permanent solution, you can add a button, or a button that you collect, or a button that you make with a laser cutter, as I did with the coil
Hinge box: that note, I added a few holes in the box, crossed the hair elastic line and added a small triangle button to close (photos 2-5).
This is a well thought out idea and I use the laser cutter to add extra holes by carefully positioning my parts.
You can easily add holes where you need them by using a hand drill.
To add the button to the card box, cut the metal connector off the hair elasticity, pass one through the hole in the box, the other through the button, and then through the box, tie them to the box with a reef knot.
Load your new business card box and show your business card!
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