barbecue island.

Build an attractive station for your portable gas grill. This is a way to enjoy the advantage of the built-in gas grill
In the barbecue, a small part of the cost: a multi-functional, independent \"enclosure structure\"
Near Gas Grill
Covered with green slate tiles, the garage looks like a built inin.
In addition to covering up the frame, wheels and propane tanks for the barbecue, the enclosure also offers lockers for self-help counters and cooking supplies.
The size of the island can be adjusted, almost suitable for any portable barbecue;
The number of required materials will change accordingly.
For the sake of safety, the gas grill industry recommends 24-
An inch of open space between propane
Fuel Grill and any combustible material (
Wall made of wood).
For this reason, we have used a frame material that is not combustible-steel studs--
Covered by fire-
Anti-concrete back panel.
It turns out that this steel nail is very easy to use.
In the construction supply center, they are competitive in the price of wood (about $2. 15 for a 10-ft. 2-by-4)
But it\'s much lighter.
Circular saw using metal compositioncutting blade ($4 for a 7-in. blade)
Cut them into size
Vertical Bolt slip into horizontal U-shape
For the shape channel at the top and bottom of the frame. Self-
Drilling screws designed for steel frames hold the pieces together instead of nails.
Back panel (
Sold in the tile section of the home center)
Available in 3-by 5-
Foot panels of 1/4 and 1/2
Inch thickness.
We used a lighter weighing 1/4.
Inch panel on the side covers the top with 1/2inch panel.
The back panel can be cut and broken, or cut with a saw blade designed to cut concrete and stone.
Time: three to four days fee: about $110 for steel columns and backplates;
Housing * 6 10-tile material $200foot-long, 3 5/8-inch-
Wide steel nails * three 10-foot-
Long steel trough * 1-
3/4 of boxesinch self-
Drill metal screws * 4 3-by 5-
1/4 square feet
1-inch back panel * 1-
Back plate screw pound case * 1 3-by 5-
Foot board of 1/2
1-1-inch back panel * 4 feetby-12 rough-sawn red-
Wood for door * paint for door or translucent stain in gray (optional)* Two 4-
Inch galvanized metal or zinc hinge (with screws)
* Wooden screw for door * galvanized metal door pull * cabinet door buckle for tile surface * 54 1-foot-
Square slate * mortar * Two Pieces 7-
One catty sanding grouting * tool frame for tile and stone caulking * tape measure * round sawmill, metal, and (optional)
Stone/cement Blade * drill bit with Phillips head bit * frame square for tile * brush * tile saw (
Rental Store from Tools)* Bucket (
For mixing mortar (slurry)
* Rubber gloves * rubber-
Backing spatula * bag plastic gasket * notch spatula 1/4-
As shown in \"Top View\", the inch tooth structure of the shell, four rectangular column walls are screwed together to form P-shape.
To reinforce the frame and support the back panel of the top and floor, we cross over with the cross
The bracket formed by the steel nails becomes flat. 1.
Measure the length and width of the grill, as well as the height of the grill worksheet.
To get enough permission, the \"parking space\" should be 2 inch long and wide than the grill itself.
For the front (A)
, Add 24 inch for the storage side.
The finished counter height should be horizontal with the working surface of the barbecue, so when determining the frame height, consider the thickness of the tile and the top of the back plate. 2.
Cut bolts and passages for A, B and 2 Cs.
The door to the storage room is on.
Its opening has a horizontal head with a pair of bolts on both sides and their solid face facing out.
3% inch per pair measured from the outer edge-
The width of the DingTalk.
Add a third bolt next to the internal pair to create a block where you will unscrew the back plate of the back plate. 3.
Dock Cs and screw to A to flush the outside edge with the outside edge of A pair of nails on both sides of the door opening;
As shown in top view, add B. \" 4.
To provide the surface connecting the floor, cut the debris channel to fit between all bolts at the bottom of the storage area.
Reverse offset them on the bottom channel;
Install the screws through the side. 5. For cross-
Braces, 4 cuts 193/4-inch-
Long film of student material. Cut 1 1/2-
Create two labels along the inch slit of the crease at both ends (
See above for details).
In the same space, fold the label and screw it in place. 6. Cut 1/4-
Inch back plate covering the side;
Fixed on the frame with back plate screws.
Cover the top and floor with 1/2-
Inchbackboard (
Notch bottom to fit bolts).
Screw in place with back plate screws. 7.
Cut the wooden door into a suitable opening; paint or stain.
Fix the hinge on the bolt with a metal screw and fix it on the surface of the door with a wooden screw.
Add handle and snap.
Install the door after completing the exterior. Note.
The basic housing is complete and light enough to carry to the final position.
If you live in a frozen area that covers the frame, please note that the back panel manufacturer cannot guarantee that the tiles will remain adhere.
Consider covering the side of the garage with plaster and cement
Based on wall panels or artificial stones, or manufactured on board-and-
The appearance of the rebounds.
You can also make a top of a galvanized metal plate on a piece of papermetal shop.
There are many tiles suitable for outdoor use (
See \"terrace TilePrimer\", May 2000)
However, the cost of grinding edges and corner bricks will be greatly increased.
We chose the slate tile because the visible edges look attractive when it is cut.
How to plan the tile layout before mixing mortar.
Minimize tiles
Cut, place the entire tile in every corner at the top of the locker, and highlight the sides with the thickness of the tile so that they can act as covers for the side tiles.
Calculate the size of the tiles, which must be cut to fit the size between the entire tiles, allowing the grout line.
Plan the position of the tile in the rest of the top.
Continue the grouting line from the top face down the front (
Tiles may need to be trimmed);
An attractive option is to remove the tiles in the middle (
See photo on page 136).
Plan the layout of the vertical surface; leave a 1/8-
Inch gap at the bottom.
When you are sure that your plan is correct, cut all the part waves with wet saw, double
When you go, check if it\'s appropriate.
Mix the mortar, then start from the top and set in the mortar in stages.
Use plastic space to create a uniform grouting line and keep the bottom belt of the tile on the ground.
Mix and add grouting when mortar is dry.
Seal when the mud is dry.